Locals take the long way home through Stockbridge, and one morning here shows why.

It was a village outside Edinburgh until the city grew down the hill and swallowed it. It never quite accepted the fact. Lower buildings, more sky, a river at the bottom and a Sunday market of its own. Here's how to spend a morning.

Dean Village should not be here. A deep wooded gorge with a river and old mill buildings, ten minutes' walk from the busiest shopping street in Scotland. It ground the city's flour for centuries, then went quiet.

Now it's one of the most photographed places in Edinburgh. By late morning there's a queue on the footbridge for the picture. So go before 10am, and come in the old way.

Everyone walks the Royal Mile. Most people walk straight down the middle of it and miss the point. The street is the spine. The life was always in the closes that run off it like ribs.

A close is a narrow passage between tenements, running off the main street. Around eighty survive off the Royal Mile. Some open onto hidden courtyards. Others drop in long stone stairs to the lower city. They were once among the most crowded places in Europe.

Here are five worth going down, in order from the castle to the palace.

Outlander filmed all over Scotland, but it didn't come into the city until season three. Claire goes looking for a printer called Alexander Malcolm, and Edinburgh plays itself in the eighteenth century.

Most of the city locations are within a twenty minute walk of each other. Here they are, with the castles beyond the city at the end.